
"Nothing more than mushroom identification develops the powers of observation." -- John Cage, INDETERMINACY
There exist over 70,000 species of fungi, with more being discovered every day! The number of Agarics alone exceeds 5,000! These numbers are huge when compared to, say the 700 or so species of birds in North America and they provide the first clues that identifying mushrooms is more challenging than bird watching. In addition to their vast numbers, the facts that most fungi only fruit for a very short time and are often separated into different species based largely on microscopic differences also indicates some of the difficulties encountered. Yet, in spite of these difficulties (or perhaps because of them) mushroom identification is one of the most enjoyable, satisfying and rewarding pastimes.
So how does one get started in identifying mushrooms? Perhaps first by admitting that you are not going to identify every mushroom you find. You are not even going to identify half of the mushrooms you find without hours and hours of work. Second, with many mushrooms you will have to lower your identification standards and be content to identify the specimen as a poisonous Amanita or a Russula or a member of some other large group or genus of mushrooms. Many of these groups contain hundreds or thousands of species, and even the experts have trouble sorting them out.
But while mushroom identification is not easy, it is possible. Many mushrooms have distinguishing features that set them apart and it is possible to learn most of the common mushrooms that you run into regularly. The key is knowing what to look for.
Keep in mind that the mushroom is nothing more than a fruit, like an apple; the main part of the fungus lies beneath the soil or in the wood. The purpose of the mushroom is to give off spores (microscopic seeds) and it is entirely built around this purpose.
First you need to take the mushroom that you are looking at and put it into the broadest category that you can. Here are seven general categories. Not everything fits neatly into one of these categories but most do. It would be prudent to look through this list and either say to yourself ``Sure, I've seen those'' or else look for these in a mushroom identification book so that you will know them when you see them. [Note that no one group is edible or poisonous.]
Gilled Mushrooms. These are the traditional ``mushrooms''
that one
often finds. They have a stem and a cap and if you turn them
over you'll see blades, or gills, radiating away from the stem.
These provide a lot of surface area for the spores to grow on
and be released.
Boletes. These look almost the same as gilled mushrooms,
except that when you turn them over there is only a spongy
looking surface. When you look closer, this surface is full of
holes called pores that are the openings for tubes where the
spores develop.
Tooth Fungi. In most cases these have the same basic shape as
the gilled mushrooms and boletes (a cap sitting on a stem). The
only difference is that they produce their spores on spikes
pointing down under the cap.
Shelf Fungi. These are primarily fungi that grow out from
wood to form shelves which drop their spores through pores
(like boletes). There are often tough and last for many years
but can be soft and fleshy.
Puffballs and Earthstars. As the names imply these are ball-shaped
fungi or ball-shaped sitting on a star-like base. They produce
their spores inside this ball and puff them out when disturbed.
You can find these in all sizes from a fraction of an inch to a
couple of feet in diameter.
Coral Fungi. These look somewhat like ocean coral. The
are usually a few inches tall and grow either on ground or
wood with many branches growing upward. The spores are
produced on these branches.
Cup Fungi. These are small (up to a few inches in diameter) flat
saucer-shaped mushrooms that aren't much interest to the
mushroom eater, but can be a fun challenge to the identifier.
Morels. Both true and false morels are related to the cup fungi
and appear briefly once a year in the spring.
Now let's concentrate on the gilled mushrooms as an example of the characters of fungi and techniques of identification. Most of what is said will also apply to the boletes.
The first question that you'll want an answer to is one which
is impossible to immediately answer in most cases: What color
are the spores? Since the spores are microscopic, you can't
just look at one and see what color it is. To properly
find the spore color, you must get out a sheet of white paper
(some people prefer halfwhite-halfblack paper), cut the stem
off the mushroom, put the cap on the paper with the gills
down, then cover with a bowl or cup. If you're lucky, after a
couple hours or overnight you should have a nice outline of the
gills made by thousands of spores falling onto the paper, like
the one shown, and can easily tell the spore color.
The problem, of course, with this method is that it takes at least a couple hours and sometimes if the mushroom is too dry it doesn't work at all. What most experienced mushroom people do is make an educated guess based on the color of the gills and their past experience. It helps that there are only a few major colors that spores usually can be: white, pink, brown, or black. (There are actually quite a few varieties of browns and off-whites.) One can start making a spore print while making a tentative guess as to what color the spores will be.
The second most important feature of a gilled mushroom is one that you may not think of with most mushrooms: gill attachment. How are the gills attached to the stem, if at all? There are two main categories for gill attachment: free and attached. When we say a mushroom has free gills we mean that the gills never reach over to touch the stem. This is quite noticeable in older mushrooms as there is a small area around the stem where there are no gills. It's sometimes harder to see in younger mushrooms but still noticeable. The second category, attached gills, is further divided into degrees of attachment: Are the gills just barely attached (adnexed)? Do the gills run straight into the stem (adnate)? Or do the gills run down the stem for a little ways (decurrent)? If this weren't complicated enough, there is one other common possibility where the gills get short like they want to be free, but near the stem are decurrent. These are called notched gills.
So how do you keep all of these attachments straight? Most people just divide gill attachment into four possibilities: Free, Attached, Decurrent or Notched (where it's understood that attached means not decurrent and not notched). One rarely needs a finer distinction.

The next group of features that you want to look for comes about as the
mushroom is developing. When a mushroom starts growing it tries not to
dry out, which is hard for the gills not to do because there is so much
surface area. A lot of mushrooms deal with this problem by forming a
veil. (This is a thin layer of tissue.) Sometimes this veil covers the
entire mushroom (the universal veil) -- sometimes just the cap (a partial
veil), and sometimes there are several veils (or layers) that may cover
both. When we find the mushroom it is older and in many cases the veil
has broken or vanished. Some of the characters that it leaves behind are:
A volva or cup at the base of the stipe. This is where
the veil that covered the entire mushroom was attached. It
can have several shapes and often these shapes are
important in identifying the mushroom to species.
Patches on the top of the cap are remnants of the veil
that covered the cap. These can vanish quickly for some kinds
of mushrooms and are not usually the main feature in identifying a
mushroom, but can sometimes be very important.
A ring on the stem is an important piece of evidence. Like the patches,
the weather can take these away
rather quickly for some mushrooms, but a ring is very
important, because it means that the mushroom developed
with a veil around its cap attached to its stem. Sometimes
the ring can be thick and sometimes it is just a few darkened
threads on the stem.
The veil itself or veil remnants can often be found in many
mushrooms at least partially attached to the edge of the cap. Like the
ring, sometimes it is thick and sometimes very thin like a spider's web.
All four of these items are important when found. The most common found of these is a ring. But if you see a cup at the base of the stem and free gills, you can immediately place the mushroom into just a few groups: Amanita or Volvariella. Likewise, if you see a spiderweb-like veil, you can say (with a few exceptions) that the mushroom you have is a Cortinarius.
Another comment about rings and veils is that they are good places for spores to get trapped. So by looking closely at the ring or veil, you can often see a dusting of spores and save the trouble of making a spore print. The same is true about leaves under the caps as well as other mushrooms growing up beneath their older siblings.
Most mushrooms have what we call a fleshy stem. In a few cases, however, it is a thinner, tougher stem. This is usually called a cartilaginous stem. Other mushrooms go the other direction with a big brittle stem that crumbles like damp chalk.
Another very important character of the stem, when it occurs, is the lateral stem, i.e., the stem coming out from the side of the cap. This is usually seen in mushrooms growing on trees.
There are many other characters that are used in mushroom identification -- too many to mention here. A few of the more common things to look for are:
So now you know some of the things to look for. But who's going to tell you what they mean? So what if it has attached gills, a ring, and a white spore print. What is it and is it edible? This is where the books come in.
There are two basic kinds of good mushroom books (see the list of mushroom books later in this booklet), those with lots of mushrooms and good illustrations like Lincoff or Phillips, and those which lack either in the quantity of mushrooms or in the quality of illustrations, but which have keys. With the first type of book you are given a lot of choices, but little guidance. Basically you must find a mushroom picture which matches your specimen, then read its description to see if it really is what you have. More often than not the description won't quite match your specimen, for example, the wrong spore color or the wrong location; so you go back to the pictures. On the other hand, a (dichotomous) key is a step-by-step questioning that should take you to the correct mushroom (or close). Here is a typical section from a key.
| 1. Veil absent; cap brown to red-brown. | 2 | |
| 1. Veil present, consists of fine hairs (check young specimens) | H. mesophaeum | |
| 2. Cap 4-6 cm broad; gills white to gray, covered at first with fine water drops | H. crustuliniforme | |
| 2. Cap smaller or larger; gills lack water drops | 3 | |
| 3. Cap 2--4 cm broad | H. hiemale | |
| 3. Cap 7-12 cm broad | H. sinapizans |
This is the key to Heboloma (other keys would direct you to this key) from Orson Miller's "Mushrooms of North America" and illustrates some of the common problems in using a key. You often must have both young and older specimens to answer a question. Sometimes the feature that you're looking for isn't always present leading you to doubt any choice made. Quite often when there are two size ranges, your specimen will be right between the two, i.e., what if your Heboloma has a 6.5 cm cap? Another problem here (and a problem of mushroom books in general) is that there are probably over a hundred species of Heboloma and only the most common four are listed. There is a chance that what you've found isn't in the book. Still, even with all of its problems, a good key should be a consideration in choosing a mushroom book.
A useful beginning key is a key to genus. This will tell you that the mushroom you have is a Lactarius for example, but won't tell you what kind of Lactarius. There are a couple of common kinds of keys to genera. One is the dichotomous key like the key above. The other is a pictorial key. Here is a pictorial key to the major genera of gilled mushrooms based on spore color and gill attachment. Choosing the column with the correct spore color and the row with the right gill attachment leads to a suitable section of the array which must be surveyed to find the genus of your mushroom.
Keeping a list of the mushrooms you've found, where you've found them and when you've found them will help you learn more about the habits of the mushrooms that you're finding. You will more readily learn their names and remember where and when they come out. It's fun to keep a life list of mushrooms that you've identified. Any small notebook will work.
Another way to record your finds is by writing up a Description Sheet on each mushroom. This provides more details on each mushroom and helps train your identification skills by forcing you to look at the mushroom in detail. The particular group mushrooms that you look at most often may affect what you choose to list on your description sheet. Here is a sample description sheet that you can copy and complete each time that you find a new species of mushroom. You can add to it or keep a list of where and when you've subsequently found the same mushroom.
Most of the following ten mushroom species are considered to be choice edibles in the common field guides. All are easily recognizable.
Here is a list of thirteen mushroom books. Each book has some nice features as well as some drawbacks.
To learn to identify thirty mushrooms is a major accomplishment. This list is meant to aid you in knowing what to expect. All of the mushrooms on this list occur regularly in Wisconsin and are good edibles which someone starting out can expect to find and be able to identify with the help of a field guide.
There are many species of poisonous mushrooms. The list below is by no means inclusive. However, it does point out some of the poisonous mushrooms you are most likely to encounter.
If mushroom poisoning is suspected, keep some sample specimens in the refrigerator for identification purposes. Call a poison control center or your local hospital or medical center. The phone number for the poison control center in Milwaukee is 414-266-2222.
The Wisconsin Mycological Society is a non-profit group whose main purpose is to educate our members. We do this primarily in two ways: through our winter lecture series and by way of forays during the temperate months. Our members have broad interests ranging from art and photography to scientific studies to culinary. We try to meet these interests as well as possible. If you have any suggestions, feel free to contact any of the directors or officers.
Even though the exact meeting times vary from year to year, as do the locations, here is a general timetable of our activities
| January | Members' slide show and hors d'oeuvres |
| February | Lectures or workshops Set date and location for annual meeting NAMA dues must be sent to NAMA by the end of month |
| March | Newsletter Picnic notice and meetings notices Lectures or workshops Board of Directors set foray dates and places Dues reminder (postcard) Last mailing for unpaid members |
| April | Lectures or workshops Mushroom Dinner |
| May | Morel foray Meeting of Nominating Committee deadline for June newsletter submissions |
| June | Newsletter Annual meeting notice Early foray notices Annual meeting and picnic Annual treasurer's report Board of Directors meeting |
| July | Summer foray (Chanterelles) |
| August | Photo foray |
| September | Newsletter Fall forays |
| October | Fall forays |
| November | Board of Directors set winter schedule |
| December | Newsletter |
| William F. Blank 5821 W. Valley Forge Drive Milwaukee, WI 53213-3230 (414)476-1592 |
Kristine Ciombor 7141 W. Forest Home Ave. Greenfield, WI 53220-2920 (414)649-9830 (O) (414)321-8531 (H) |
John Fetzer 1309 S. 73rd Street Milwaukee, WI 53214 (414)771-4165 |
| Charles Fonaas 2053 S. 73rd Street West Allis, WI 53219 (414)328-0458 |
David L. Menke 8011 216th Ave. Bristol, WI 53104-9722 (262)225-4000 (O) (262)857-7469 (H) |
Dr. Alan D. Parker U. W. Waukesha 1500 University Drive Waukesha, WI 53188 (262)521-5495 (O) (262)542-7688 (H) |
| Sunny Rupnow 15205 West Greenfield Ave New Berlin WI 53151-1519 (414)784-2737 |
Martin Sendera 2227A S. 28th Street Milwaukee, WI 53215 (414)643-0070 |
Charles L. Soden 7002 W. Montana Milwaukee, WI 53219 (414)327-0487 |
| John Steinke S92 W32460 Hwy NN Mukwonago, WI 53149-9304 (262)363-7407 |
Peter L. Vachuska 440 North Street West Bend, WI 53095-2512 (262)335-3339 |
| President | John Steinke S92 W32460 Hwy NN Mukwonago, WI 53149-9304 (262)363-7407 |
| Vice President | David L. Menke 8011 216th Ave. Bristol, WI 53104-9722 (262)225-4000 (O) (262)857-7469 (H) |
| Secretary/Treasurer | John Fetzer 1309 S. 73rd Street Milwaukee, WI 53214 (414)771-4165 |
| Assistant Secretary/Treasurer | Charles Fonaas 2053 S. 73rd Street West Allis, WI 53219 (414)328-0458 |
| Dr. Harold
Burdsall, Jr. One Gifford Pinchot Dr. Forest Products Lab Madison, WI 53705 (608)264-5634 (O) (608)767-3930 (H) |
Dr. Martyn J. Dibben 1899 Horns Corners Rd. Cedarburg, WI 53012-9790 (262)376-0231 |
Dr. Thomas J. Volk Department of Biology and Microbiology 3024 Cowley Hall UW-La Crosse La Crosse, WI 54601 (608)231-9214 (O) (608)233-0069 (H) |
| Marilyn K. Fifield 1535 W. Dean Rd. Fox Point, WI 53217-2541 |
Thomas B. Fifield 1535 W. Dean Rd. Fox Point, WI 53217-2541 |
This document was written by Peter Vachuska with the help of many other WMS members.
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